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Articles

Filtering by Tag: Isaia

The Gun Club Check

Kamau Hosten

With respect to the navy jacket and its versatile appeal, it does become rather a dull reach-for. For the odd jacket aficionado, a windowpane option, a houndstooth and the gun club check are all suitable alternatives to the always-tasteful navy.

Coat by Isaia, shirt by Kamakura Shirts, Tie by Josiah France, pocket square by Kent Wang lapel pin by By Elias,

Coat by Isaia, shirt by Kamakura Shirts, Tie by Josiah France, pocket square by Kent Wang lapel pin by By Elias,

However, when the large check teeters on ‘too much’ and a micro check doesn’t provide enough, the gun club offers that crucial balance. What’s more, the (typically) brownish tones lend a decidedly casual nature to the coat. The pattern registers as a near-solid from a distance, but on closer view the eyes get a bit of visual interest. The blue overcheck in the coat and that of the jacket are in harmony, and the seasonally appropriate tie is the finishing touch.

The check, according to author and menswear historian Alan Flusser, was a Scottish pattern, The Coigach, adopted by an American gun club in the late 19th century. The name became synonymous with the club. It's popularity as an off jacket continues, with the name firm.

Trousers by Brioni, monk straps by Howard Yount

Trousers by Brioni, monk straps by Howard Yount

Because of the neutrality of the tones, it’s easy to pair with equally neutral colors that pick up the coats base colors; the blue oxford here. The texture plays especially well with trousers in flannel and suede monk straps. Mid-grey and blue-ish grey trousers offer the nicest compliment to the pattern on top. That contrast is pleasing, as brown trousers may come off a bit too stark.

The Winter Coat Guide: The Single Breasted Topcoat

Kamau Hosten

Following a heavy, double breasted coat, a single breasted top coat is an excellent second option for the milder days of winter. This coat won't look as inherently dressy as a double breasted, opening the wearer's options to sportswear, rather than solely  formal clothing. Though the previous post was spent bemoaning the single breasted coat, it does have its place.

Coat and suit by Brioni, shirt by Piatelli, tie by Isaia, hat by Selentino, eyeglass frames by Tom Ford

Coat and suit by Brioni, shirt by Piatelli, tie by Isaia, hat by Selentino, eyeglass frames by Tom Ford

This style is versatile. The understated charcoal and herringbone pattern make it best at home over suits and sport jackets alike. The peak lapel is a touch that is always dressier than its notched brethren; it's just dashing enough. Still, it's less dressy than its velvet collared chesterfield cousin. The lapel rolls to the middle button, much like a three button jacket. The middle buttoning point provides a the sought after'V' which frames a suit jacket and tie nicely.

Wool pocket square by J.Crew

Wool pocket square by J.Crew

Among the advantages of the single breasted is the quiet simplicity. However, some men have allowed themselves to become hidden in lifeless, ill-fitting coats, the majority of them in black. Incorporating a texture or pattern like herringbone or tweed, in a shade that isn't black, may add enough personality for those willing to tip toe outside the box of conformity.

Bonus points for dressing the breast pocket.

Photos by Bevin Elias